The pocket square evolved from the handkerchief and can trace its roots back to ancient Greece, where sophisticated urban men carried perfumed cloths to mask the odours of the market place. In medieval England, King Richard II introduced the handkerchief to his court to discourage noblemen from wiping their noses on their sleeves and by the 1700s every well-dressed man sported a lace or embroidered hankie. With the advent of the suit, the handkerchief found its natural home in the breast pocket where a gallant gentleman could reach it easily if a lady suddenly required one. A second handkerchief stayed out of sight in a trouser pocket (“one for show, one for blow,” as the saying went).
Our forefathers took pleasure in subtle adornment and quickly saw the opportunity the pocket square presented. Whether made of silk, cotton or linen, plain white or richly coloured and patterned, it provided a refreshing splash of colour against a suit or sports jacket. The way it was folded (or not folded) became a further expression of individuality.
All these truths apply today, although the square is no longer a ubiquitous accessory. It has fallen from favour with many men because of the mistaken belief that it is difficult to coordinate with a shirt and tie. In fact the reverse is true. There is only one actual rule concerning the pocket square: that it should not be an identical match to the tie (it looks too contrived). Beyond that, its charm lies in a complimentary but relaxed freedom of expression.
For more on coordinating a pocket square with suit, shirt and tie and diagrams to help you fold a pocket square please click here.
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