harry magazine» Notebook» Clothes and the Man (wardrobe basics)» Shearling

The shearling coat

Natural, warm and supremely comfortable

For many men, a natural shearling three-quarter-length or hip-length coat is the ideal choice for all but the coldest days between October and April. Soft, supple, surprisingly lightweight and reliably warm, it can even carry you right the way through a mild winter. And while we value a shearling for its rugged appearance, many of today’s jackets and coats are cut and finished in a remarkably elegant way. A three-quarter-length coat is long enough to cover a sports jacket.

shearling coat

What is shearling?

The word refers to the pelt of a yearling sheep that still has the unshorn fleece attached. Several pelts will be needed to create a single coat. At the highest level, the tailors will work by hand with the unshorn pelts of Spanish merino lambs, source of the world’s finest, softest sheep wool. First, the hides are individually tanned to a nappa suede finish – extraordinarily soft and supple yet pleasingly rugged. They are then matched, cut and sheared by hand – typically to ¼ to 3/8 of an inch – before the pieces are painstakingly sewn together – fleece on the inside, suede facing the world. The sewing alone is a full day’s work for a tailor. With no lining to hide behind, the inside seams are trimmed to near invisibility before the fleece is cleaned, pressed and vacuumed.

 

Lighter than fur, warmer than many down-filled coats and stronger than woollen cloth a shearling is also surprisingly versatile. The natural leather and wool reacts to ambient humidity, wicking away moisture in warmer temperatures or retaining it when the thermometer drops, allowing you to stay comfortable through all sorts of weather.

 


Feeling is believing
Depending on the chosen finish, the soft supple leather can feel as smooth as suede or almost grainy to the touch. Gather it up in your hands and it seems substantial; slip it on, and there’s hardly any sense of weight at all. As comfortable as your old team or university jacket, a shearling coat is only going to improve with the passing years – acquiring character – an heirloom your sons will covet.

 

For information on caring for your shearling jacket or coat, please click here.

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